Philosophy

We have created all kinds of ways to punish our companions with the hopes that they will obey us.  But just because we can do something, doesn't mean we should. My approach is my business name: Collected Wisdom. I have worked with a wide variety of professionals including veterinary behaviorists, wildlife biologists, marine mammal trainers, and psychologists to formulate my approach. I enjoy training where the animal wants to participate in the behavior change. If they don't want to do something, the result is conflict. Many animals come with a weapon (teeth & claws) so it can get dangerous quickly, not to mention the liability that arises when promoting methods/devices that cause a fight response. Most of you didn't get your companion because you wanted a fight, right? Instead you probably envisioned taking nice walks or finding a nice playmate for your other pet. The good news: behavior is changeable (within reason), and it doesn't require a fight to do so.

I use force-free reinforcement methods that focus on using the animal's own motivation to get the behaviors you want. Traditional training focuses on punishment and saying “No”, usually via some correction to stop behaviors from happening. Your dog can quickly learn not to trust you and most of the time they also learn we are unpredictable (either because our timing is slow, we have missed something in their body language, or training becomes an outlet for our human emotions). I set the animal up for success using reinforcement so that you can say "yes" to the behaviors that you like and want to see again.  I find it is more fun to train this way for both you and the dog, builds the connection and trust, and establishes lifelong behaviors. 

I do not use any collars that have metal or a shock component due to the punishment fallout that often occurs. These devices have been banned in 16 countries so far, and with good reason. I do use nylon head halters, no-pull body harness, and regular buckle collars. I teach people to use food at the start of training because it helps you get rapid behavior change and gives you an immediate way to begin new interactions with your dog. Once both you and dog have established a set of foundation skills, we fade out the food as soon as possible so the dog can focus more on your body language.

The profession of animal behavior has created humane ways to train our companions that don't use force. The model I use is from the Hierarchy of Behavior Change Procedures for Humane and Effective Practice (see image below).  This model was initially created for the behavioral treatment of children to help stop abuse and mistreatment (i.e. shock backpacks for misbehaving children in the 1960's). The process is to start at the top of the funnel, and work down through each level until the behavior is modified. You will see that punishment is on the list, but it is the very last option. First, try all other techniques that are both effective and humane and you will find that behavior change most often occurs in the first 1-4 levels. You will rarely find yourself moving all the way down to use punishment. This model ensures that that we as professionals are remaining ethical in our practice and that above all, we do no harm by the animal.